Pearls have captivated jewellery lovers for centuries, symbolising elegance, purity, and natural beauty. Yet many people don’t realise how varied pearls truly are—or how differently each type forms. From the lustrous Akoya to the bold South Sea pearl, and from perfectly round gems to wonderfully irregular baroque shapes, every pearl carries its own story.
In this guide, we explore how different types of pearls are formed, what colours they naturally display, and how each pearl type is used in modern jewellery.
How Saltwater Pearls Are Formed
Saltwater pearls grow inside oysters living in oceans and seas. Compared to freshwater pearls, they typically feature more defined shapes and a sharper, mirror-like lustre.
Akoya Pearls
Formation:
Akoya pearls are cultivated mainly in Japan, China, and Vietnam. A bead nucleus—usually made of mother-of-pearl—is inserted into an Akoya oyster. The oyster coats the bead with nacre over 10–18 months, forming a pearl known for its roundness and brilliance.
Colours:
Classic white or cream shades dominate, often with rose, silver, or ivory overtones.
Jewellery Uses:
Akoya pearls are prized for their symmetry and shine, making them the top choice for traditional pearl necklaces, stud earrings, and bridal jewellery where a timeless, uniform look is desired.
South Sea Pearls
Formation:
Grown in the warm waters of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, South Sea pearls are produced by the Pinctada maxima oyster—one of the largest pearl-producing oysters in the world. Their longer cultivation period (2–4 years) results in thick nacre and large, luxurious pearls.
Colours:
South Sea pearls come in creamy white, silvery tones, and deep gold, with golden South Sea pearls being among the most valuable pearls on earth.
Jewellery Uses:
Due to their size and prestige, South Sea pearls are frequently used in high-end pendants, stand-out rings, statement earrings, and luxury necklace strands.
How Freshwater Pearls Are Formed
Formation:
Freshwater pearls are grown in lakes and rivers, primarily in China. Unlike saltwater pearls, they are formed without a bead nucleus; instead, a small piece of mantle tissue is inserted into a mussel. Because mussels can produce many pearls at once, freshwater pearls are more abundant and come in an impressive range of shapes.
Colours:
Naturally occurring shades include white, peach, lavender, cream, and sometimes metallic tones.
Jewellery Uses:
Freshwater pearls are incredibly versatile. They are popular in fashion jewellery, multi-strand bracelets, long pearl ropes, and designs that embrace organic shapes.
Pearl Shapes & How They Are Formed
Beyond the basic distinction between saltwater and freshwater pearls, pearls can develop in a range of shapes depending on the conditions inside the mollusc.
Round Pearls
Formation:
Round pearls form when the pearl sac shapes evenly around the nucleus. Saltwater Akoya pearls are especially known for their near-perfect roundness.
Jewellery Uses:
Ideal for classic strands, elegant earrings, and fine jewellery that requires symmetry.
Button Pearls
Formation:
Button pearls develop when the pearl is slightly flattened on one side. This happens when the nacre build-up is uneven or when the pearl grows close to the shell wall.
Uses:
Their flat back makes them perfect for stud earrings, pearl rings, and pendants where a lower profile is desirable.
Baroque Pearls
Formation:
Baroque pearls grow in irregular forms due to unpredictable nacre layering. They can be abstract, asymmetrical, and full of character.
Colours:
Found in both saltwater and freshwater varieties, with natural whites, golds, and pastel hues.
Uses:
Highly fashionable in avant-garde necklaces, bold earrings, bohemian jewellery, and designer collections where uniqueness matters.
Coin Pearls
Formation:
Coin pearls are formed when a flat, coin-shaped nucleus is inserted into the mussel. The pearl grows around it, creating a smooth, disc-like shape.
Uses:
Excellent for pendants, bracelets, and contemporary earrings due to their large surface area and modern aesthetic.
Biwa Pearls
Formation:
Originally cultivated in Lake Biwa, Japan, Biwa pearls are long, slim, and uniquely shaped. Although true Japanese Biwa pearls are now rare, the term is often used for similar stick-shaped freshwater pearls.
Colours:
Typically white but also found in peach or lavender tones.
Uses:
Perfect for artistic necklaces, drop earrings, and statement pieces that highlight their organic, elongated form.
Final Thoughts
Whether perfectly round or wonderfully irregular, each pearl type brings its own charm to jewellery design. Understanding how these pearls are formed—along with their colours and uses—helps you choose pieces that suit your style, story, and budget.
